Oregon Wine Historical Milestones
Oregon wine grape growing is almost as old
as the state, beginning with the first settlers coming over the Oregon
Trail. Peter Britt arrived in Jacksonville in 1851
and within a few years planted the first vineyard in southern Oregon with
Mission grapevines. His winemaking became Valley View Winery in 1873. The 1860 Census of Agriculture lists Oregon
wine production at 2,603 gallons. The 1899 Census lists 537,139 grape
vines of bearing age as yielding 2,694 tons of grapes.
| 1904 | Wine producer Ernst Reuter, a
German settler near Forest Grove, won a silver medal at the St. Louis Exhibition. |
| 1933 | The first post-Prohibition
license was granted to Louis Herbolt. |
| 1961 | Richard Sommer planted first
post-Prohibition vinifera, including Pinot noir, in the Umpqua Valley.
His HillCrest winery was bonded winery no. 44 in Oregon. |
| 1965 | David Lett planted
Pinot noir and related cool climate varieties in the Willamette Valley. |
| 1968 | Oregon Pinot noir from HillCrest Vineyards,
Umpqua Valley, became available in the Oregon market.
The first Southern
Oregon grape varietal trial was planted, followed by three more
in 1969. |
| 1969 | A quarantine was imposed by the Oregon Department
of Agriculture against importing non-certified rooted vines. |
| 1970 | Oregon had five bonded
wineries with 35 vineyard acres. |
| 1973 | Passage of Senate Bill 100 and
its companion SB 101 established Oregon°s revolutionary comprehensive
statewide land use planning goals and the great legacy of Gov. Tom
McCall. These bills built upon SB 10 that first established land
use planning in 1969, but without enforcement. SB 100 created the
Land Conservation and Development Commission and accompanying state
department; SB 101 strengthened Exclusive Farm Use (EFU) zones. Many
people involved in the then-infant Oregon wine industry actively
worked on the passage of this legislation and continue to support
the intent of Senate Bill 100. Their work is credited with reducing
residential encroachment on what was then believed to be ¿Marginalî
hillside land unsuitable for profitable agriculture. The result of
their efforts, even near urban centers, is acres of lush vineyards
and orchards rather than ¿viewî developments.
The seven wineries
in Oregon produced approximately 8,500 cases. There were 30 growers
and 450 acres. |
| 1974 | The importance of clones was
identified and Oregon°s specific needs defined. The concept
of ¿matching variety to climateî drove the establishment of
the earliest Oregon vineyards. At the time growers ordered
the desired cool climate varieties, there was little US understanding
of clonal variations within the varieties. Oregon was blessed—by blind luck—to begin with Pommard and Wadenswil
Pinot noir clones. Clones of other varieties were not as perfect. In
1974 Dick Erath led the effort to bring more vinifera from UC Davis and
monitor the plant material through USDA quarantine at Oregon State University. In
France, David Adelsheim and Charles Coury Jr. arranged for selections,
especially of white varieties, to be sent to Oregon State University from
research stations in Espiguette and Colmar. |
| 1975 | L°Omelette Restaurant, the trendy
Portland spot in the °70s, introduced the first US wine list featuring
an all-Oregon wine section.
Barney Watson was hired as Oregon State University
(OSU) winemaker and researcher. |
| 1977 | The Winemakers of the Pacific Northwest,
by Elizabeth Purser, was the first regional ¿coffee tableî book
published. The full-page color photographs and naÇve text are
now considered a rare wine collectors° item.
The Table Wine Research
Advisory Board was established to conduct needed research support
for the young but growing wine industry. It was funded through
a tax on grapes.
Oregon°s strict wine labeling regulations,
proposed by the industry, were adopted by the Oregon Liquor
Control Commission. The innovative regulations are a bold component
at the foundation of the Oregon wine industry. Although the federal
government later raised national standards, Oregon°s regulations
remain stricter and represent honesty and integrity in wine
labeling. |
| 1978 | A handful of Oregon winery owners
gathered over a kitchen table to create the first ¿Discover
Oregon Winesî brochure. Frequently expanded since, the guide,
currently titled Vintage Oregon,
has grown to a colorful bound booklet of 128 pages with 500,000 copies
printed. It has been singularly effective in developing basic viability
for small wineries as well as the overall Oregon wine region. The
guide created an informational base for another Oregon specialty: winery
joint promotions, particularly the extremely popular Memorial and Thanksgiving
Weekend Wine Tours.
Oregon Winegrowers° Association was founded, a statewide
trade organization merging the former Winegrowers Council of Oregon (representing
the Willamette Valley) and the Wine Growers Association (of Southern
Oregon).
David Heatherbell was hired as OSU wine researcher. |
| 1979 | Gault-Millau French
Wine Olympiades placed The Eyrie Vineyards1975 South
Block Pinot Noir in the top 10, resulting in the first
international recognition of Oregon.
Hugh Johnson visited
Oregon. His colorful interviews resulted in finally
achieving the inclusion of Oregon in his definitive
and on-going World Atlas of Wine series.
Steamboat
Conference was established by Stephen Cary (Yamhill
Valley Vineyards, OR) and Mike Richmond (Acacia
Winery, CA). It has become an annual three-day summer
gathering of winemakers only, initially from Oregon
and California, now from around the world. The program
is simple: tastings and endless unrecorded honest discussions
on the true nature and maddeningly elusive beauty
of Pinot noir. Steamboat remains the font of knowledge
of Pinot noir production and appreciation. The
conference was named for the setting, Steamboat Inn,
a world famous remote fly fishing lodge on the wild
North Umpqua River in Oregon. |
| 1980 | Oregon had thirty-four
bonded Oregon wineries and 115 growers with 1100
vineyard acres.
A Robert Drouhin-sponsored French
blind tasting reconfirmed the high rating of
The EyrieVineyards 1975 Pinot Noir. International
coverage of the challenge upset brought widespread
attention to Oregon Pinot noir.
The dramatic
volcanic eruption of Mt. St. Helens brought
world focus to the region. Feature stories speculated
on the fate of grapevines and wines. In fact,
many vines were damaged and a major industry-funded
research project was ¿Effect of volcanic
ash on juice and wine.î Oregon vintages are never
normal; this one was spectacularly unique. |
| 1981 | Ponzi Vineyards
was the subject of the first New
York Times, exclusive profile/review coverage of Oregon. Frank
Prial featured the Ponzi 1979 Willamette Valley Pinot noir. Mark Kliewer of University of California at Davis toured
vineyards in western Oregon and found low yields, potassium deficiency
and drought stress. Porter Lombard took over responsibility of OSU viticultural
research. |
| 1982 | At the International Wine
Competition, London, Double Gold medals were awarded to Tualatin Vineyards
1980 Estate Pinot noir and 1980 Estate Chardonnay. |
| 1983 | Cary Oregon Wines, the first
national broker for Oregon wines, was established by Stephen Cary and Reuben
Rich. They carried the message, and the proof, of premium Oregon
wines throughout the United States. Although the business no longer
exists, many of the distributor/winery relationships developed then remain
today. The efforts of Cary Oregon Wines established acquaintances
and foundations for many of the pivotal media events of the future. Publication
of the first edition of Oregon Grape Growers°
Guide, the only basic handbook on cool-climate viticulture,
written by growers—Marilyn Webb, Ted Casteel, David Adelsheim, Susan Sokol-Blosser
and others—for growers. The Guide has
been in continuous demand and publication. The Oregon Wine Advisory Board was established by legislative
act. Oregon growers and producers elected to tax themselves at the
highest rate in the world: $25/ton. Funds, collected as taxes
by the state and administered through Oregon Department of Agriculture
and a volunteer Board of Directors, were restricted to projects equally
divided between research and marketing. Steve Price was hired as viticulturist at OSU. |
| 1984 | Robert Parker of The
Wine Advocate was contacted by Rachel Starr, then a retailer who
subsequently became his correspondent/agent in Oregon. At Parker°s
request and expense, Starr selected and shipped him varied lots of Oregon
Pinot noir. The samples sparked a quiet, curious, exploratory trip
to Oregon by Parker and his assistant in 1985. [Overheard comment, ¿These
guys don°t know what they have hereÞî] The Advocate°s enthusiastic, exciting
review of Oregon°s 1983 vintage brought the wine world°s focus to Oregon. Parker
and his brother-in-law, Michael Etzel, later partnered in establishing
an Oregon vineyard: Beaux Freres° first vintage was 1990. Oregon State University and the Oregon wine industry
hosted and organized the first International Cool Climate Wine Symposium,
with 600 participants. The event has since been held in various cool
climate regions of the world, generally every four years. ¿Dijon clonesî arrived at OSU. Though commonly
referred to as ¿Dijon clones,î the selections of Chardonnay and Pinot noir
came from many parts of Burgundy. A profound improvement in Oregon
Chardonnay and greater complexity of flavors and earlier ripening times
in Pinot noir have resulted. David Heatherbell, then of OSU, now
home in New Zealand, and Raymond Bernard of the ONIVINS Research Station
in Dijon, demonstrated the essence of international wine colleagueship
in jointly overcoming many obstacles simply to contribute to world wine
appreciation. Oregon°s first American Viticultural Area (AVA) was
approved. The Willamette Valley AVA was joined later in the year
by the Umpqua Valley AVA. |
| 1985 | 1985 The Burgundy Challenge at the International
Wine Center, New York, was organized by Al Hotchkin and Peter Morrell. The
intriguing challenge, to taste 30 wines blind and distinguish the high
profile Burgundies from Oregon Pinot noirs, piqued the curiosity of the
New York press, wine trade and connoisseurs. The experts could not
distinguish Oregon from Burgundy, and went on to rate Oregon wines as the
top five. Fortunately, when the blanket of positive press and sudden
demand for Oregon Pinot Noirs hit, the early marketing efforts had already
placed Oregon wines in national outlets. All previous inertia
vanished and the market, along with interest in Oregon wine, leaped forward. The Wine Spectator at last acknowledged Oregon. An article featured
the astonishing results of the Burgundy Challenge; photos exhibited the
distinct beauty of Oregon vineyards. |
| 1987 | The IPNC—International
Pinot Noir Celebration— was created in McMinnville. It was
the world°s first wine forum created by local winemakers and community
wine lovers focused exclusively on the variety Pinot noir. Speakers
featured several winemakers of the then-rising (now acknowledged) stars
of Burgundy. Gerald Asher was a speaker and subsequently wrote a long,
beautifully romantic story detailing the Celebration in Gourmet Magazine. The
event was launched; Oregon was blessed; the future of the IPNC not only
assured but mandated. The
Drouhin Family, of the highly respected and venerable Domain Joseph Drouhin
of Burgundy, purchased 100 acres for vineyards and a winery in the north
Willamette Valley. Robert Drouhin had made several visits and appearances
in Oregon, earning the respect and friendship of the larger wine community. Veronique
Drouhin was appointed winemaker; 1988 was their first vintage. The
extraordinary Franco-Oregon venture was widely reported, denoting the seriousness
of Oregon wines and underscoring credibility of the Oregon wine industry. The
flow of established winemakers from other regions to Oregon continues,
from Australia, New York, Canada and California. While the IPNC was an encompassing success and demonstrated
that Oregon knew exactly how to put on a great wine event, it was also
the year Oregon learned a hard but vital marketing lesson. Fueled
by highly positive national reception to the 1985 vintage, glowing press
releases touted a glorious 1987 vintage. On release, the vintage
overall failed to meet the promise. The national market backfired. Reminded
that honesty remains the best policy, Oregon vowed unsubstantiated hype
would never happen again. Two new AVAs were established, both crossing the Oregon-Washington
state border: Columbia Valley and Walla Walla Valley. |
| 1988 | Gov. Neil Goldschmidt presented Oregon
wine to Burgundy. Gov. Goldschmidt, always a wine lover and later
wine producer in Dundee, traversed a minefield of potential social,
cultural, economic and trade disasters to lead a group of government
officials and winery owners on a mission to the heart of Burgundy.
He—and his selection of Oregon wines—was
warmly and enthusiastically received by the cream of Burgundian wine society. He
thus cemented a relationship between the two Pinot noir regions that thrives
today in not only friendships, but exchanges of winemaking techniques,
business and young people learning the craft respectively in Oregon and
Burgundy. |
| 1989 | The nation°s first successful self-underwritten
public stock offering resulted in the establishment of Willamette Valley
Vineyards. This addition of over 4,500 wine enthusiasts as owners broadened
the Oregon wine industry°s political base. This new and passionate ownership group helped secure
passage of HB 1903 making wineries a permitted use in Farm Use Zones. |
| 1990 | Oregon°s wine industry had grown to 70
bonded Oregon wineries and 320 growers, with 5,682 vineyard acres. Phylloxera, a root louse with a history of devastating
wine areas, was first identified in commercial Oregon vineyards. These
discoveries were met with fear and frustration. Ultimately, the infestations
precipitated significant changes in the Oregon winegrowing business: New
plantings changed from ¿own-rootedî vines to those grafted onto phylloxera-resistant
rootstocks, and the opportunity arose to plant varieties and clones better
suited to many sites. |
| 1991 | The Rogue Valley American Viticultural
Area was federally approved in Southern Oregon. |
| 1992 | The Salud! Wine Barrel Auction – the
first US hospital-initiated and financed collaboration with local
wineries was founded. Half barrels of one-of-a-kind Pinot noir cuvees
are auctioned. All proceeds provide health care for vineyard workers
and their families. Salud! now offers a full-time staff, basic services
including permanent prenatal, child health, cancer and other disease
screening and dental clinics. Mobile medical vans bring most services
directly to the workers at vineyard locations. The 4th edition of the Oregon Winegrape
Grower°s Guide was published
by Oregon Winegrowers° Association. Ted Casteel, Bethel Heights Vineyard,
was the editor. |
| 1994 | The Oregon Wine Marketing Coalition
was founded. The cooperative marketing group of over 40 wineries,
with roots in the startup activities of Cary Oregon Wines, presented educational
seminars and tastings of Oregon wines throughout the United States. |
| 1995 | Salud! Auction Road Show. Salud!
wineries hosted an extremely well covered major Manhattan press tasting/lunch/seminar,
followed by an all-Oregon cuisine dinner at the NYC James Beard House. The first professorship in Fermentation Science was
established at Oregon State University as a result of a gift from Jim Bernau,
founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards. An ambitious legislative agenda resulted in legislation
allowing in-state winery direct shipment to consumers, over strong opposition
from the wine wholesalers lobby; winery tastings in stores and restaurants;
winery off-site special event license privileges; and winery distribution
to customers from off-site locations through a new warehouse license privilege. General
Fund support for viticulture and enological program at OSU was also increased. |
| 1997 | The LIVE program—Low Input Viticulture and Enology— was
introduced to Oregon by Ted Casteel, Bethel Heights Vineyard, and Carmo
Vasconcelos, of OSU, and a group of winegrowers. LIVE is a program
developed in Switzerland to define and set global standards for sustainable
agricultural practices. Organic, biodynamic and/or sustainable farming
practices have long been widely accepted by Oregon winegrowers. |
| 1998 | The
wine industry added $120 million to the Oregon economy. |
| 1999 | Chemeketa Community College in Salem launched
its vineyard management and winemaking program. Legislation (HB 3429) was passed to allow multiple winery
licensees on a single premise, paving the way for innovative strategies
such as the Carlton Winemakers Studio. The passage of HB 3295 permitted
Oregon Viticultural Directional Highway Signs marking the entrances to
viticultural areas. |
| 2000 | Oregon had 135 bonded wineries and approximately 500
growers, with 10,500 vineyard acres. The first Oregon Pinot Camp was presented. Forty
Oregon wineries combined their talents and resources to organize a remarkably
creative and successful event. Selected retailers and sommeliers
from throughout the US were invited for a first-hand acquaintance with
Oregon vineyards, winemaking, winemakers and hospitality. Guests°
enthusiasm pushed the experimental event to an annual one. |
| 2001 | Oregon
was the first American region certified by IOBC, the International Office
of Biological Control. The certification endorsed
LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology), a non-profit Oregon corporation
with the authority to certify Oregon vineyards. More than 60 Oregon
vineyards are LIVE certified, indicating they have demonstrated compliance
with LIVE standards. To obtain enological certification, wines must
be approved by the LIVE Tasting Panel and meet all other standards through
submission of reports. Bethel Heights Vineyard was the first to display
LIVE Certification on its label, thus assuring the consumer of definite,
definable standards of viticulture and enology. The Applegate Valley American Viticultural Area was
approved. It is entirely within the Rogue Valley AVA. The legislature passed HB 2033 creating an Agricultural
Processing Income Tax Credit to offset local personal property taxes on
winery equipment. HB 3961 established a Wine Marketing Tax Credit
to be taken against a portion of the state alcohol taxes paid, for Oregon
Wine Board-approved marketing activities. |
| 2002 | Oregon redefined winery design and architecture
with the construction and opening of the world°s first ¿greenî wineries:
The Sokol-Blosser Winery aging cellar and the Carlton Winemakers
Studio boldly demonstrated that wineries can at once be beautiful,
functional, state-of-the-art, and environmentally proactive. Both
structures are LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)
certified by the US Green Building Council. The green concept is
comprehensive, encompassing innovation in building materials, siting,
labor and financing. The Carlton Winemakers Studio took an even further
innovative step in creating the world°s first multiple independent
winery producers facility. |
| 2003 | Oregon Viticulture, a complete updating of the Oregon Winegrape Grower°s
Guide was published by Oregon
Winegrowers° Association. It was edited by Edward W. Hellman, Associate
Professor of Viticulture at Texas A&M University and Texas Tech University,
formerly Oregon State University Viticulture Extension Specialist. A broad coalition of winery
and vineyard owners proposed and successfully passed a bill (HB 3442) abolishing
the Oregon Wine Advisory Board under the Department of Agriculture and
created a consolidated independent agency of the industry, the Oregon Wine
Board. Members are now appointed by the Governor of Oregon, rather
than the Director of the Oregon Department of Agriculture. Self-imposed
grape taxes continue to fund the Board and its marketing and research. Based
on a bylaws change by the Oregon Winegrowers° Association (OWA), the members
of the Oregon Wine Board also became the board of OWA. Wine industry leaders also
aided passage of the Tourism Promotion Bill (HB 2267) providing $8 million,
through a one percent statewide lodging tax, to ¿Brand Oregonî efforts. Effective
collaborative promotions of wine and related Oregon raised, grown and caught
food products followed. Chemeketa Community College
opened the Northwest Viticulture Center at its newly constructed Eola site
in West Salem. This Center includes vineyards and a winery for teaching,
and represents a tribute to the growing economic importance of the Oregon
wine industry as well as its need for trained workers. The Oregon wine
industry contributed heavily to this project with cash and dedicated advisory
committees. Wine related industries contributed equipment and expertise. The count of bonded Oregon wineries
reached 220, with 13,400 vineyard acres. |
| 2004 |
Columbia Gorge became an official American Viticultural
Area (AVA). It crosses the Columbia River to encompass counties in
both Oregon and Washington. It joins the Columbia Valley and Walla
Walla Valley AVAs that are also shared by the two states. Three other
AVAs were approved within Oregon, to be effective in 2005. Both the
Yamhill-Carlton and Dundee Hills AVAs are entirely within the larger
Willamette Valley AVA. The third is the Southern Oregon AVA, containing
the existing Applegate Valley, Rogue Valley and Umpqua Valley AVAs.
The new approvals brought the total number of AVAs in or shared by
Oregon to 10.
At the Dundee Bistro, a Walk of Fame was created by
the Ponzi Family. Thirty people who have been instrumental in the
establishment and development of the wine industry in Oregon were
honored. Most were present to set their footprints in concrete,
together with a plaque. |
| 2005 |
The McMinnville American Viticultural Area was approved. It
is located within the larger Willamette Valley AVA.
The Oregon Winegrowers° Association, the industry trade organization,
became the Oregon Wine Advocacy Council (OWAC), focusing efforts on
legislative, legal and regulatory issues.
The number of Oregon wineries reached 314, and vineyards 519, according
to the Oregon Wine Board. |
Sincere thanks to Nancy Ponzi for providing
the foundation milestones for this history. The Milestones were
originally prepared for Oregon Pinot Camp 2000 by Adam Campbell, Nancy
Ponzi and Amy Wesselman based on responses from OPC participating wineries,
then edited for OPC 2003 by David Adelsheim and Nancy Ponzi and for OPC
2004 by Harry Peterson-Nedry and Nancy Ponzi.
Additional entries were added from a variety
of sources for use by Chemeketa Community College in preparing an Oregon
wine industry historical display for its Northwest Viticulture Center.
Betty M. O°Brien edited this version for CCC. Note on numbers of wineries reported: These
numbers can vary based on including wineries that are bonded, those producing
wine in a given year, virtual wineries, grower privilege licensees, or
multiple brands. Vineyard acres are those reported by the Oregon
Agricultural Statistics Service, www.nass.usda.gov/or.
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